Do you dream of raising your very own backyard chickens? Tasty fresh eggs for breakfast, a steady supply of manure for your garden, entertaining pets . . . not to ruffle your feathers, but there are some practicalities to consider before you take flight. (Sorry, I had to use some chicken puns.)
While it’s not easy to start keeping chickens, once you are set up, the upkeep is simply a matter of following routines. Chickens need food, water, shelter, and protection from predators. The coop, or shelter, will be your first challenge. If it’s really small, design it with a sizable opening on hinges for easy maintenance and egg collection. Nesting boxes are essential and should measure about 30 cm by 30 cm by 30 cm. You will need two or three boxes for a small flock of about six birds. Chickens like to feel hidden and safe while they are laying eggs so keep this in mind when you are situating your boxes. Several perches are also a must. Dowelling works but sturdy branches work well too. Set them into slots on the wall so they can be removed for easy cleaning. Chickens sleep on perches but they also love to climb and explore so it’s good to have various perches both inside and outside.
A dirt floor is economical and allows you to practice the “deep litter” method. Simply top up with about 6 cm of fresh bedding every few weeks, depending on the size of your shed and flock. Many chickens in a small space will require more frequent top-ups. Once or twice a year, completely shovel out all of the litter. You will find that the litter on the bottom has already composted nicely. Mix well and let it sit for a period of four months to be sure all the pathogens have died off. Turn the pile periodically to allow for more even composting. This mix is high in nutrients, improves soil structure, and adds microbes to the soil – worth its weight in gold!
Enclose a pen (as large as you are able) with a sturdy fence, then cover the fencing with chicken wire. If your pen is small, then birds of prey will not have enough room to swoop in and out. But if you have racoons in your area, or your coop is larger, you may wish to lay chicken wire over the top as well. Make sure it’s high enough so you can move around easily underneath, about two meters. Some useful extras include: an automatic chicken door that is activated by daylight, and a lightbulb inside the coop on a timer that will provide some extra hours of light during the dark months so your chickens continue laying.
You will need two food products: chicken scratch and layer pellets. Read the packages for amounts to use and adjust as your flock increases or decreases. Save kitchen scraps, too – the hens will love you for it! Lists of foods to avoid include: garlic, onions, tomatoes, avocado, asparagus, potatoes. Chickens will also consume weeds. I toss armfuls into the coop. What they don’t eat breaks down and helps soak up excess moisture. They will eat any seed sprouts as soon as they pop out of the ground. Keep fresh water inside and outside. Store feed in metal containers, such as aluminum garbage cans with tight lids. Disinfect food receptacles about once per month – once a week for water vessels. Refresh water daily and remove uneaten food to avoid attracting pests. Clean the roosts regularly by scraping off feces and then then cleaning with vinegar.
Chickens that have free access to their outdoor pen are considered “free range”. However, you may wish to have a collapsible fence (snow fencing works well for this) that you move around to give them access to other areas of your yard. They will love the freedom of grazing on fresh grass and bugs. Your eggs will also taste better!
